Iceland Day 7

There was only one activity on the agenda today but what a great day it turned out to be!

It was pouring rain but we were going on a wheeled boat ride to look at glaciers and I thought ‘how wet can I get?’ Ha! Although the boat ride was only about half an hour long, it was pouring, and I mean really pouring! I was wet right through my Gortex jacket and didn’t warm up until hours later.

The boat ride was at Jokulsarlon Lagoon in the southeast of Iceland. The ocean current carries pieces of glacier into the lagoon of various shapes, sizes and colors. It was absolutely breath-taking! (or was that the cold driving rain?) The guide had a piece of 1000 year old ice onboard and chopped it up for us to taste. The ride was over all too fast and I would have liked to go up to the top of the hill and view the lagoon from above. But I wasn’t prepared for the cold and wet today. Rain pants and waterproof boots would have been the wisest choice. Live and learn.

Lunch was at a small authentic little eatery in the town of Hofn. It is known as the lobster capital of Iceland and I had a delicious and reasonably priced lobster baguette. We had a lot more miles to go to our destination in east Iceland so on we went.

I was surprised when we turned off the main road onto gravel but as it turns out, the main road is a gravel one and we hadn’t turned off at all. The coastline began to get real interesting but photos were difficult in the driving rain and it got super foggy. Then we began to see snow (old, not fresh) by the sides of the road – lots of it. Eventually the rain and fog quit. We made a stop for ice cream, then we headed toward the town of Seydisfjordur in the east of Iceland.

Just before we got there we stopped at a pullout by the side of the road to view a raging, waterfall and enjoy the astounding, drop-dead gorgeous views! The town of Seydisfjordur is also a photographers delight and the guesthouse we are in for the night is adorable! Supper was Icelandic lamb served with lettuce, tomatoes, peppers and yogurt in a delicious warm panini type of bun. What fancy restaurant served me this? The food truck across the street!

After supper I went for a walk around the town and up to one of the waterfalls. Seydisfjordur is located at the innermost point of a fjord nestled amongst mountains. Beautiful yellow and pink wildflowers and purple lupins added to the composition of so many photos. There is a harbor here too and ships come in from Scandanavian countries. The wooden buildings are colorful, the architecture is fabulous and I had a ball exploring with my cameras!

Iceland Day 6

This morning started with a half an hour drive to meet our guide for the glacier walk. We got fitted for crampons and were given a serious-looking ice pick as well. Then we drove a further 15 minutes to the base of the Virkisjokull Glacier in southeast Iceland.

We had about a 45 minute walk along a rocky, gravelly path to where we needed to put on the crampons. We didn’t realize we were already walking on the glacier for quite a while as the ground didn’t seem icy. But underneath the loose black stuff that looked like gravel was ice.

Our guide showed us how to put on the crampons, then checked to make sure they were tight. I was wondering what I had signed up for when I was issued the 2 foot long metal ice pick. But it was just so that we could stick the pointy handle end in the ice if we needed extra traction.

Walking on the glacier was easier than I expected. It wasn’t solid ice but kind of soft and crystallized. It was also quite dirty looking. Our guide showed us how much melt had occurred using plastic pipe as a measuring device. There are scientists measuring and photographing the ice on a regular basis to check on the health of the glacier.

There were dangerous looking holes and crevices in the ice. Our guide led us single file and stopped frequently to give us information. I enjoyed hearing what she had to say and I was glad of the chance to catch my breath. This G Adventures tour has been rated a 2/5 in terms of activity level - light walking, nothing too challenging – is how they put it. Ha!

We walked as high up as we could go without ropes, helmets and more serious ice climbing equipment then turned around and made our descent. I was a little worried about slipping as some of the slopes were on the steep side but slow and steady wins the race….or at least gets you back to the bus in one piece!

Our noon meal was a picnic lunch provided for us then we were off again to the next stop – Ingolfshofdi Cape. Our form of transportation to the Cape was quite unique. We piled into a long wheeled wagon and our guide pulled us there with a powerful tractor. I say powerful because there was about 30 of us altogether and we went through quite a deep river right at the beginning much to the amazement of most of us.

It was a bumpy half hour ride across the field of black volcanic ash mixed with basalt. We piled out and hiked up to the top of the cliff where it was grassy. We had to be careful where we walked because of the skua birds nesting right along the path. The parents weren’t too happy with us and swooped pretty close to our heads to show their displeasure. One of these feisty birds attacked a sheep that it thought was getting too close to it’s babies…what a sight!

As we got closer to the ocean side of the cliffs the view was amazing. We were quite high up and I was glad of my fleece and waterproof jacket when it started to rain and blow. I also got good mileage out of my rain pants, gloves and light ear muffs today.

Our guide was a long time resident from the area and knew a lot of history as well as a lot about the local  birds. We saw our first puffin and then some more! They seemed quite curious and posed nicely. The guide set up a spotting scope and we really had a good look!

We hiked for about an hour and a half before we went back for the return tractor ride. I am definitely going to recommend this tour of the Cape on TripAdvisor when I get home.

My new hiking boots got another good workout today

Iceland Day 5

The day started out cloudy and grey but it didn't rain and there was no wind. That makes a big difference here in Iceland, well, anywhere really.

We headed east on the main highway that circles Iceland, stopping to buy groceries for our picnic lunch later on. Then we headed to our first waterfall of the day and it was a doozy.

Seljalandsfoss is an impressive 65 meters tall and the cool thing about this goss (waterfall) is that you can walk behind it! Apparently when the sun shines, rainbows appear. We weren't lucky enough to see that but it was pretty spectacular all the same. 

Our next stop on the journey east was Slogafoss Falls. A significant number of steps lead one to a viewpoint at the top of the falls. I decided to stay at the bottom and take my time photographing the beauty there. That and the fact that my leg muscles were sore from yesterday’s hike…haha!

Across the river formed from the flow of the falls, I spied some Icelandic horses peacefully grazing as if they were posing for photographers. The backdrop was a beautiful green mountain and traditional farm buildings. The group included a little baby colt which was nursing, after which he contentedly laid down. 

I walked closer to the main attraction, tucking my 'good camera' under my waterproof jacket. Quite close to the falls, there was a little overhang where I stood somewhat protected from the onslaught of water in the air. There were gulls nesting along the cliffs and beautiful flora and fauna clinging to life on the rocks. We had our picnic lunch at some nearby tables. 

In the afternoon we drove to a wonderful viewpoint overlooking the ocean. The rocks were huge, pointy and quite unique-looking! Below, a mother duck of some sort was walking along the shore with her ducklings. She headed towards the water to escape a human chasing her family for a photo. Stupid human! When the fierce ocean hit the ducklings I thought they were goners but they are ducks of course....no worries!

We piled in the van and headed a little further on towards the black sand beach below. You could feel and hear the fury of the ocean. As I was intently looking through my lens, a big wave came past the 'dry' line and got me good! Silly photographer! 

The cliffs above were made of a brown shale-like type of rock. Above that, the ground was a magnificent green and I was amazed to see a sheep grazing on an extremely steep slope. 

The beach was part sand, part rocks.  And oh, what rocks they were! Although they were mostly black, I managed to fill my pockets with various colored stones. I hope to be able to wire-wrap them when I get home and turn them into jewelry of one kind or another. Some people made inukshuks with the stones. Most of the rocks were smooth and invited ‘play’.

When we went to leave that spot, we discovered we had parked on a soft gravelled area. How soft? It was like getting stuck in mud or snow. Fortunately there was a farmer quite nearby with a tractor. Unfortunately we were the third tour van stuck today, while 5 were stuck yesterday. Really! He pulled us out, but for a fee. Our guide wouldn’t say how much but it wasn’t chicken feed.

Our guide told us today was going to be a 'fossy' kind of day. There are over 10,000 waterfalls in Iceland and we've seen some gooders! Our last stop of the day was yet another fall called Systrafoss. It was tucked away amongst some trees and turned this way and that. Nearby was a picturesque sod house which I photographed from all angles.

We are staying 2 nights at the Islandia Hotel in Nupar in the south of Iceland. There is nothing but the hotel for miles, er, kilometers, all around. Dinner is being served!

Iceland Day 4

Day 4 Sunday, June 23

Today was definitely not a ‘day of rest’!

We began the day with a lovely buffet breakfast at our hotel, which is called Frost and Fire, and is located in the town of Hveragerdi, 45 minutes from Reykjavik. The town is known for it’s geothermal activity which they use to power homes in the area as well as greenhouses. The hotel pool, jacuzzis and sauna all make use of these geothermal springs. For breakfast I had a slice of ‘rugbaud’ bread cooked in the hot springs. You can even cook your own egg in a hot spring right outside the front door!

Our morning agenda was a ‘hot springs hike’. Our guide drove us up and around to the top of the Hellisheidi mountain range in the beautiful Reykjadalur valley where we were met by another guide. Rather than climb up to the springs and down again, we were able to just go down, which we thought would be an easy activity. Not!

The path was well marked and the terrain was a workout for some of us. It was a bit rough and uneven with lots of ups and downs. I soon peeled my outer 2 layers off before too long. The views were stunning and I sometimes found it hard to keep up with the group because of my tendency to take so many photos. But I just couldn’t help myself!

As we neared our destination, one of our group took a spill crossing a small stream. She was OK but needed medical attention and we were glad there was a nurse in our group. I was a little more careful navigating the tricky parts from then on.

We found the bathing area and got in, hardly believing the water could be so hot after our experience in 2 degree Celsius water yesterday! But it was quite lovely and we enjoyed a short soak and rest for our feet.

Altogether the hike was 4 kilometers, which doesn’t really sound like very much. But the terrain was rocky, muddy, and hilly. We saw many geothermal springs with steam rising up into thin air. We also surprised a few sheep along the way.  

In the afternoon our group divided up and some of us went on a white water rafting tour. This was a first for me and I was a little unsure of the idea. We were picked up at our hotel by a transfer van and delivered to a spot 45 minutes east of Hveragerdi. Although we had many layers, suiting up was easier than yesterday’s adventure. We got in a bus and drove to another location down river. Our guide gave us the required safety information and we practiced in easy water before we got too far.

The worst of the rapids were at the start of the trip and I sat at the back near the expert guide. That was the best pace for me he said and who was I to argue? The river was only rated a class 2 but that was enough for me. We definitely didn’t stay dry but we all stayed safely in the boat.

The scenery was great and the weather was beautiful. Warm sunny days in Iceland don’t come all that often, even in the summer!

When we got back to where we started, there was a delicious lamb barbeque waiting for us. It really hit the spot after all that physical activity today. On the way back to our hotel I had a snooze and so did many others!

It’s time for another soak in the hot water!

Iceland Day 3

After a lovely buffet breakfast at our hotel, the group headed out of Reykjavik towards Thingvellir National Park.  

The traffic thinned out considerably as we left the city and I thought we would be away from the touristy crowds. We were - at our first stop - the entrance to the park. We had a nice overview  of Thingvellir Lake. People had made rock piles beyond the entrance sign. In Canada's Arctic they are called inukshuks. I shouldn't have been surprised to see them in Iceland as the terrain is similar.

Our next stop was very crowded with day trippers doing what is known as the Golden Circle.  After we got a closer look at Thingvellir Lake, we headed over to Silfra fissure.

We met up with the Dive IS company. They explained how to suit up and got fitted for our gear. First came your layer of thermal underwear followed by a layer they called the teddy bear suit. It was like a sleeping bag with feet and arms. Neoprene socks were next. That was followed by the snorkel suit which fitted tightly around the wrists and neck, and had rubber boots already attached. Then came neoprene mitts and a skull cap. Flippers and the snorkel mask completed the ensemble.

It was very hot in all that gear but the water temperature was a cool 2 degrees Celsius. After a short walk over to the entry point, we descended down a metal staircase and got into the water. It was a weird feeling once you got in. The dry suit gave you extra buoyancy and it was impossible to keep your legs down in the water. Even though we were well suited up you could still feel the cold through all the layers. Once your face hit the water, you felt a natural urge to pull it out and keep it out. But eventually you got used to the numbing cold.

After adjusting our masks, we set off in 2 groups of 6. Our leader, Jill, was most  patient and helpful and got me through some moments of panic when my mask started to fill with water.

The Silfra fissure is famous for it's incredible beauty and visibility. As you flow along with the current you are actually moving between the American and Erasian continents. It was quite an experience but I was more than glad to get out of the frigid water at the end of the route!

We headed over to Gullfoss which means Golden Waterfall. It is Iceland's most famous waterfall and one of the most visited sites as well.

I, along with a steady stream of tourists, walked along the path to get to the top of the waterfall. The spray was quite vigorous and it was impossible to stay dry. But my photos were so well worth it!

Our next stop was the Geysir thermal area. We saw the original inactive geysir after which all other geysirs have been named. Spellcheck tells me I'm spelling it wrong but that is the way they spell it here in Iceland.

One of the geysirs went off quite regularly, approximately every 2 to 5 minutes so we watched it for quite a while. Just just before it blew each time, it formed a great big round bubble - so cool to watch and so difficult to photograph!

Our last stop on the tour today was the Kerio Crater.  It is an inactive volcano which has filled with glacier water. The water was such a beautiful blue and the rocks and vegetation were a brilliant red and green. It took us about 20 minutes to walk all the way around the top of it.

Our accommodation tonight is a beautiful little guesthouse beside the river. We have hot tubs just outside our door which are filled with natural hot water. I am too beat to enjoy them tonight but maybe tomorrow!