Day 20 - Shakawe Houseboat

We left Maun at 8:30 AM and headed north along black top. Today we have a nice van instead of our open safari vehicle. What comfort compared to other days. There were plenty of potholes but at least there was no wind blowing in my face and I was able to read my Kindle and snooze.

It was a long drive – about 5.5 hours. We had to stop to clean our shoes at a ‘Hoof and Mouth’ checkpoint again. And we had to stop and/or slow down at least a dozen times for animals crossing the road. They weren’t exciting sightings like giraffe or elephants, but cattle, mules, goats and horses. I thought we were going to hit some on occasion but we didn’t of course.

We arrived at our destination, Shakawe, at 2 PM and boarded our accommodation for the next 2 nights. We are travelling by houseboat down the Okavango Delta. The water where we flew over yesterday would have been impossible to navigate with a large craft. Further north, the channels are much wider and deeper. Our group of 9 plus 2 guides are only guests on this houseboat, which goes by the name of ‘Kabbo’.

After we put our stuff in our cabins we were served a nice lunch of spaghetti, meat sauce and salad. Another gal and I went for walk nearby before the boat took off but there really wasn’t much to see. On shore, there was a wooden canoe which I was hoping we were going to use but they have a larger craft for excursions. I sat in the canoe anyway, just for the experience.

Around 3:30 we left where we were moored and headed out at an easy pace. The grass along the banks is incredibly tall, perhaps 10-12 feet. There are quite a few birds in and around the water of course. We also saw crocodiles and even elephants.

I was in the middle of a great story on my Kindle and anxious to continue, so I found a quiet spot at the rear of the boat. It was most enjoyable sitting in the shade with a glass of wine. However when the sun came around, the heat in combination with the wine, made me quite sleepy so I lay down for a nap.

I was woken up by my roommate who came to tell me the sun was setting. It was beautiful and clear. We’ve noticed how perfectly blue the skies are here in Botswana, particularly in the Maun area. We have moored for the night and the mosquitoes and bugs are out in full force.

Supper was some kind of steak, noodles, veggies and a delicious coleslaw. It is very dark out there and much to our surprise we have an early morning tomorrow. It’s not 9 PM yet and many have gone to bed. I’m headed there soon. This is so not me!

Day 19 Botswana - Maun

We didn’t have to leave until 8 AM today so the alarm wasn’t set for 5:30 AM. We left the bush lodge we’ve been at for the past 2 nights and headed into Maun, Botswana. It was about an hour on the rough highway, followed by another hour on black top – hurray!

We arrived at our hotel by 10 and went for a coffee break. Then a group of us went in search of some stores for Botswana souvenirs. We took a taxi because our hotel was quite a ways out of town. Although Maun is the country’s 5th largest city with a population of 60,000, there really isn’t much for shopping. When we got back to the hotel we had lunch in their restaurant.

At 3 PM our guide took us to the Maun Airport where we got checked in for our scenic 45 minute flight over the Okavango Delta. It is one of the world’s largest inland deltas and is considered one of Africa’s Seven Natural Wonders. They weren’t ready for us until 4:30 PM.

I was excited when got to sit in the front seat again! But it really was of no advantage. Unlike a helicopter, you can’t even see out of the front windshield of a small 6 seater plane because the dash is so high up. Oh well, it was fun sitting beside the cute pilot!

I was amazed at the size and scope of the delta. I am anxious to learn more about it in the days ahead. I was able to spot elephants, giraffe, kudo or impala perhaps, and several other herds of I-don’t-know-what.

The ground and the water make for an interesting patchwork of greens, browns and blues. I can hardly wait to examine my photos in detail. I’ve got some great abstracts!

After the flight we were whisked off to another activity – a Botswana cultural presentation and dinner. We learned about the work the director is trying to do with disadvantaged, unemployed youth, and watched them perform traditional singing, drumming and dancing.

We learned about their clothing, ceremonies and then had a delicious traditional meal.

My favorite was the pounded beef, made by boiling the beef for hours until it is tender, then pounding it as the name suggests. Yum!

Back late; bed late. I hope I can sleep on the long drive tomorrow.

Day 18 Botswana - Leopards, Lions & Elephants

After the alarm went off at 5:30 AM, I was looking forward to a hot shower, but again, it was a cool one. The tap water is very salty and when you get it on your lips, you know it. Breakfast was at 6, and we were off by 6:30.

Our destination today was the Moremi Game Reserve an hour and a half away. Today I sat in the front row of four on the jeep. That made quite a difference to my back, that and some pain killers.

Our road was bumpy, and many times we had to take a short little detour due to trees lying across the road. Elephants are very messy eaters and quite destructive. We saw the odd giraffe enroute, and some elephants (we call them ‘ellies’) quite close to the road. We drove off road so as not to disturb them. When I say ‘road’, I mean a sand trail. I shot a video of the road through the front windshield and it was impossible to keep the camera steady.

When we arrived at the park gate, we used the facilities – much nicer than a rock. We headed off to see what we could see. The guides had a 2 way radio on and suddenly changed course. We headed off in a different direction at break-neck speed. We knew there was something very interesting to see but they wouldn’t tell us what.

Oh my goodness, it was a mother leopard and her cub feeding on a freshly killed red lechwee!

We got so close, then parked and watched in fascination for a good long while. The mother had finished feeding and the cub was digging away. He was having difficulty attacking the flesh. The female leopard got up, and began tugging at the fur. She got several mouthfuls, then dropped the hair on the ground. She did this several times, then went to lie down again.

Again, I could have watched for much longer.

Then, we came across 2 male lions resting in the shade after they had had their fill. They had also killed a red lechwee. We parked extremely close, a little too close for comfort for some of us. Their breathing was quite fast I thought.

When some vultures flew by, they lifted their heads and appeared to be ready to defend. There really was no need. No one argues with the king of the beasts!

We went back to the leopards to see if she had put her kill in the tree, but they were still feeding. We could clearly see the blood and watched the female tearing the guts out of her kill.

What incredible luck we have had on this trip. To see 3 sets of animals feeding on their kills is quite rare. We headed back to the park gate to have our picnic lunch at 1:00 – salad, quiche, buns and coleslaw. Yum!

The afternoon was not as eventful as the morning but we did see various animals – waterbuck, an elephant or two, some birds and a mongoose.

At 2 PM we headed back to the lodge. It took about an hour and 45 minutes to return. When we were almost at our place, we came across a vehicle stuck in the deep sand. It looked like a regular vehicle, perhaps 4x4, but not the sturdy vehicles we have seen for the past 3 days. Our guides pulled them out and helped them turn around. Unless you have a heavy bush vehicle made for this country, it is impossible to navigate the bush roads. Some of the main ones are easy enough to drive but they don’t get you everywhere.

I enjoyed an ice cold Coke back at the camp, followed by a shower, then I lay down to read. While I was reading, I could hear various bird as well as African squirrels rustling around in the grass and leaves. Then I heard a noise that couldn’t just be a squirrel so I got up to investigate. It was an elephant just behind the next tent! I ran inside to grab my camera and began to take photos and video. I was clad in only my nightgown as I had changed into that for comfort’s sake. I was sure no one could see me from the lodge. I was wrong, and was dismayed to find out that not only had I been seen, but photographed as well. Sheesh!

Supper was another wonderful meal with delicious Botswana beef as the main course. After our meal, the whole staff sang for us as we sat around the firepit. It’s been another wonderful day!

Day 17 Botswana - Mankwe and the Lions

The wind blew all night long but I stayed warm under the nice duvet. It was soooo cold in the room however, and it was hard to leave the warmth and comfort of the bed. I was looking forward to a nice hot shower, but the water was only warm so it was a short one. The alarm went off at 5:30 AM, brekie at 6, and on the road by 6:30.

We didn’t see a lot of animals so I decided to shut my eyes. When we did see some, our guides didn’t stop, or if they did, it wasn’t long enough to get a decent photo. Today’s roads were just as bad as yesterday, maybe even more so. Our agenda said it would be a 6 hour drive but it turned into 8 hours. Rest breaks were few and far between, and toilets were behind a rock or a tree. It’s important to stay hydrated because of the heat and dry conditions here, but when you can’t just ‘go’ anywhere, you tend to limit your water intake.

The highlight of the day was when we noticed a bunch of vehicles parked in a small group. When we got there, we couldn’t believe our eyes. A pride of lions was feeding on a recently killed buffalo! We could see 4 of them chewing on the meat and bones. Occasionally we could hear a growl or two.

One lion seemed to have fallen asleep after feeding as we didn’t see her move at all. Another was sitting a bit of a distance away from the group. Then she got up and walked towards us! We were so close. She lay down in a patch of shade and began licking her paws.

I video-recorded lots of the action and took many, many photos. What an absolute thrill! Of course I could have stayed there for much longer but we had many more kilometers to cover.

We had our picnic lunch under the shade of a huge tree in a clearing. That is the safest place to stop, where you can see what’s coming from a distance and nothing can sneak up on you.

There were nests in a tree above us, all on the west side. Locals use the nest location as a directional clue, much like we do with the moss growing on the north side of a tree.

By the time we arrived at our home for the next 2 nights, Mankwe Lodge, my back was in real pain. I took some Ibuprophen and tried to sleep but there was no breeze and it was sweltering hot. I think I did sleep for a bit after the pain killers kicked in.

This is a very small camp and our group of 11, including the 2 guides, are the only guests. Our tents are comfortable, but not the luxury we had yesterday. We must be escorted to and fro when it is dark out.

As I was lying down, I could hear lots of different types of birds. After I got up, I could see elephants in the distance from the front deck. When  I came to the dining tent for supper, an elephant was feeding in the trees quite close by.

Supper was wonderful – butternut squash soup again, chicken, rice, salad and veggies. We even had the same dessert as the other camp, some type of delicious pudding. The group went out on a night game drive after supper, but my body just couldn’t handle one more minute in that vehicle tonight. I am sitting here with a cup of rooibus tea very much enjoying myself. 

Day 16 Botswana - Savuti & Ghoha Hills

It was a cold night. We only had one thin comforter and we couldn’t close one of the window flaps. But when the alarm rang at 6 AM, what a gorgeous view!

During the night a barking type of noise woke me up. I thought it was one of the dogs but apparently it was baboons. The first time I heard it, I listened intently to see what the ruckus was and I’m sure I felt an elephant going by. I couldn’ fall back to sleep easily so I looked at my iphone and I was still connected to the lodge’s wifi! I sent a friend an email telling her what had just happened and where I was. It was so surreal to be connected to the internet while in a tent on the Chobe River after being awakened by baboons!

Breakfast was French toast and bacon, then we were off in our open vehicle before 7:30 AM. Our first stop of the day was Chobe National Park. We drove on some pretty tricky, sandy roads for a good 20 minutes or more. We spotted a few animals along the way – giraffe and kudo.

But when we reached the Chobe River there was an abundant supply of all kinds of wildlife! The treed, brush type of terrain turned into a flat, wide open plain.

It was green and there was lots of beautiful clear water

. We saw many, many zebra, maybe hundreds.

There were different types of birds feeding and swimming. We also saw a jackal, some baboons, and some cattle grazing on the Namibia side of the border. I could have stayed there for hours, but I wasn’t driving, haha!

We headed on out of the park and continued for about an hour on a beautiful piece of pavement. We passed by villages and small farms. The people of Botswana seem to be more prosperous than those in Zambia. After that, the highway ended and we continued on, and on, and on. The ‘road’ was basically a sand trail. It was a bit winding, potholey and rough. We drove on it for hours. Somehow I managed to close my eyes and get some rest. I didn’t get that much sleep last night with the animal calls, the cold, and the early alarm clock.

I’m sure we were on that road for 3 hours. No Alberta gravel road is that bad! The driver really had to put it in low gear a few times and really gun it. At long last, we arrived at a beautiful lodge called the Ghoha Hills in the Savuti Park area of Botswana. It is a ‘green lodge’, meaning they use solar power and conserve water and energy wherever they can.

We had a lovely lunch when we arrived, then we retired to our tent. And what a tent it is! There is a large veranda with 2 chairs and a table overlooking the valley. I watched birds and squirrels as I typed my diary.

The inside has a spacious living room with chairs and the biggest ‘picture window’ I’ve ever seen in a tent – about 12 feet by 10 feet! The toilet and shower are in 2 separate rooms and the bathroom has 2 sinks. The beds look luxurious and they even provide housecoats and slippers. Now that’s what I call luxury camping!

At 4 PM high tea was served – refreshments and yummy baked goods. Then we went on a late afternoon game drive. We didn’t see a lot compared to other game drives we have been on. Oh well!

Supper was served at 7:30 PM but before supper, the staff sang and danced for us. There was about 12 of them and their voices were beautiful! I recorded some of the songs they sang. I hope the recording turns out OK. Supper was exceptional This truly is a 5 star lodge. The service was superb and the meal was wonderful: beef, lamb, a traditional African stew, potatoes, a chow mein type of dish and salad.

We need to be escorted to our tents as this camp is not fenced and we are not to walk about when it is dark out. I wonder what sounds we will hear tonight?!