Day 13 - Peru - Lake Titicaca

Well today was one of our most interesting and fun days of the tour. As we left the hotel to catch a boat, we were greeted with bici-taxis, at least that is what they are called in Cuba.

There is a seat for 2 in the front and the driver pedals the bicycle part behind you. I thought the traffic in Peru was pretty bad from a bus passenger's point of view. It's a little more scary on a bici-taxi because you have no protection and the guy can't speed up quickly to avoid an accident. Anyway, we all got to the harbour safely.

Lake Titicaca is the second largest lake in South America and is 190 km long by 80 km wide. Bolivia also claims part of the lake as its own. We set off in a covered cruiser with very comfortable seats.

Our guide, Pedro, was incredibly knowledgeable about the lake and the people we visited. He spoke English, Spanish, Quechua, and another language and easily translated back and forth as the people explained things to us. 

Our first stop was Taquille Island, with a population of about 2,000 people.

Their economy is based on fishing, terraced farming and tourism. Men are always knitting, even as they walk, and boys are taught the skill at the age of 6. Women, on the other hand, make the yarn and weave.

After a lengthy tour, we had the opportunity to look at and purchase some of their handiwork. The quality of the workmanship was exquisite. Homes have solar panels for electricity, and some even have cell phones and TVs!

Their society is based on community collectivism and their 6 leaders earn no money for the job. Instead, it is a position of honour. Their motto is, “Do not steal, do not lie, do not be lazy." Dogs are not kept on the island, but cats are because they are useful creatures. People go into Puno for supplies when they need to, but they much prefer the peaceful island life

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School is held on the island, and the teachers come from Puno from Monday until Friday, then go back to Puno. Marriage usually happens around the age of 16, so not many kids finish high school or go on to post-secondary education.

The wedding 'ring' the man wears is actually a belt woven by his wife. It is long and folded in half. The outside is a beautiful, colourful design and the inside of the belt is black and white striped. The white is wool, the black is the human hair - his wife's!

We walked from one side of the island to the other, and enjoyed a sandy beach for a little while. I dipped my feet in the water and was surprised by how cold the water was.

It was noonish by then so we travelled across the lake to a peninsula of the mainland for lunch. We were served chicken, fish, (trout was introduced to Lake Titicaca by Canadians), potatoes, vegetables and bread. I asked for chicken only and didn't eat much of the meal as I didn't want to 'push it'.

After lunch we went to one of the floating islands of Uros. There are actually around 42 of them and we went to a very, very small one. I couldn't believe that 5 families (28 people) live there. And a cat! I saw a black cat!!

The island actually moves up and down gently which is quite a weird sensation. The people were extremely friendly and welcomed each one of us onto their island by shaking our hand and speaking a few words of greeting. Even the children participated, including the tiniest, cutest little girl. She was so adorable, I just wanted to take her home!

With the help of visual aids, we learned how the islands are made. It was a weird sensation realizing the ‘ground’ underneath you was moving up and down. The islands are anchored down to avoid floating throughout the lake and the totora reeds they are made of are even edible!

We were given the opportunity to go for a short boat ride in one of their traditional reed boats which held about 25 people. There weren't that many takers but of course I jumped at the opportunity!! There were no life jackets in sight but the water in the lake isn't all that deep, haha! As I boarded, that tiny little girl reached for my hand to help me onto the boat. I simply couldn't believe it! She must have been 18 months old or 2 years at the most. What an 'Awwwwwe' moment!

The ladies had crafts spread out when we returned and I'm glad I didn't buy a pillow cover before now, for I found a gorgeous one there. I'd much rather purchase from the person who made the craft, than from a store.

I could have stayed longer but I was the last one back on board the cruiser as it was. It was about a half hour to Puno then we got a van back to the hotel.

Pele took whoever wanted to go for the orientation walk of Puno and I went, despite the fact that it had started raining. She showing us the main boulevard or walkway leading to a colourful square. Then we walked over to the local market.

After that, she left us on our own and a group of us went back to the boulevard and browsed in some of the shops. When someone suggested going out for supper, I decided to join them, because I actually felt hungry for the first time in days. We ate at a restaurant Pele had recommended and it was excellent. I ordered an appetizer - alpaca kabobs, which came with potatoes, a bun, and some peppers and onions. We finished in good time.

What a great day!!

Day 11 - Peru - Cusco

T'was a free day and I had big plans. But between my severely swollen and painful ankles and lower legs, plus frequent bathroom trips, I decided to forgo my tour of the Sacasayhuaman archeological site. I slept in until 9:30 am! Wow, that felt good.

My sister and I walked to the Centro Artesanal market to pick up a few more gifts, then we came back to the hotel and closed our eyes for 15 minutes.

We weren't hungry so we skipped lunch and walked over to the Museo Inka. It was a fascinating and well curated museum. I wish all of the signs had been in English though, and no photos were allowed except for outdoors - grrrr. There were rug weavers working in the courtyard in much the same way as we saw in the Sacred Valley.

I was most fascinated by a man with an amazing array of native instruments, including flutes made from condor bones, whistles that could imitate humming birds, and larger clay pot-type of dishes with holes. With these interesting looking things, he could imitate various animals simply by slowly moving the object in a downwards motion. When he moved it upward, it made another sound altogether. It was extremely cool. The instruments were for sale and were pricey, but he also had a CD of traditional music which I bought. I hope I like it!

When we left the museum, there was a light rain. I had decided not to bring a jacket today because I have packed one around for the past 3 or 4 days and not needed it. Also, the internet said it would be 23 C and warm. I froze.

We walked a few blocks over to the chocolate museum to learn about the process and of course, to try some samples. We also bought chocolates, some for gifts, others to eat.

On our travels, we happened upon a group of young boys dancing in the street! They were led by a couple of men and there was live music. I have no idea what the occasion was, but they were remarkably attentive and well-trained, and I was quite impressed!

By then it was 5 pm and we were hungry. Across from the main square was the same restaurant we'd been to the other day, Papachos. The food was good and the service was fast. We split an alpaca burger then walked back to our hotel, taking a short cut.

It is 8:40 pm and I must pack my bags. I'm going to enjoy my bed as soon as I can!

Day 10 - Peru - Machu Picchu, Train, Drive to Cusco

I had a rough night and didn't sleep well due to many visits to the bathroom. When the alarm rang at 4:35 am, the last thing I wanted to do was get up. But it was Machu Picchu day again, this time with a guide.

There are so many people heading there in the early morning, we had to line up about 3/4 of the way up the hill. It took about 45 minutes before we could board.

We had some free time there until our tour started, so I found a place to sit and rest. We were told that Machu Picchu is always cool and foggy in the morning until about 9 or 10 am. Nope! Not today. It was clear, sunny and very, very warm. The hoodie and Gortex jacket I brought stayed in the backpack - again.

At 8:30 am I went to the arranged meeting place and began the tour. He was most knowledgeable, interesting, and enthusiastic. He took us to various spots and explained what we were seeing.

He talked about the advanced knowledge of the Incas, for example, they knew the world was round long before Europeans figured that one out. Their 'Temple of the Sun' has 2 windows which let the light in so that it falls to the back wall on June 21st and December 21st. With their Southern Cross rock, it pointed to the north, south, east and west exactly.

Anthropologists figured their community was about 1,000 people and their agricultural practices of the Inca supplied much of what they needed. They also traded with other Incan tribes.

Punishment for crimes was swift and deadly so as to keep order in the community. And handicapped infants didn't stand a chance. It was survival of the fittest. It sounds pretty cruel by today's standards.

After the tour, I didn't stay, due to the heat and the fact that I wasn't feeling very well. In Aguas Calientes, I found a bank machine to replace my dwindling supply of soles, then killed time until our 12:30 lunch get together. I ordered a small, thin-crust pizza.

Our train back to the Ollantaybo station left at 2:50 pm. I was hoping to get some shut eye, but passed the time instead, with some very agreeable seat-mates. We had to pick up our regular luggage at our previous hotel, then we took a nice big bus to Cusco.

We are back at our same hotel, but this time our room is in the new section and is much nicer than before. Supper was soup and it was so slow I wanted to cancel. Oh well, it was good - quinoa and onion.

I hope I feel better in the morning. I have 30 - 40 bug bites on my legs and I fear I am having an allergic reaction to them. My ankles are huge and they hurt. The joys of travel!