Iceland Day 4

Day 4 Sunday, June 23

Today was definitely not a ‘day of rest’!

We began the day with a lovely buffet breakfast at our hotel, which is called Frost and Fire, and is located in the town of Hveragerdi, 45 minutes from Reykjavik. The town is known for it’s geothermal activity which they use to power homes in the area as well as greenhouses. The hotel pool, jacuzzis and sauna all make use of these geothermal springs. For breakfast I had a slice of ‘rugbaud’ bread cooked in the hot springs. You can even cook your own egg in a hot spring right outside the front door!

Our morning agenda was a ‘hot springs hike’. Our guide drove us up and around to the top of the Hellisheidi mountain range in the beautiful Reykjadalur valley where we were met by another guide. Rather than climb up to the springs and down again, we were able to just go down, which we thought would be an easy activity. Not!

The path was well marked and the terrain was a workout for some of us. It was a bit rough and uneven with lots of ups and downs. I soon peeled my outer 2 layers off before too long. The views were stunning and I sometimes found it hard to keep up with the group because of my tendency to take so many photos. But I just couldn’t help myself!

As we neared our destination, one of our group took a spill crossing a small stream. She was OK but needed medical attention and we were glad there was a nurse in our group. I was a little more careful navigating the tricky parts from then on.

We found the bathing area and got in, hardly believing the water could be so hot after our experience in 2 degree Celsius water yesterday! But it was quite lovely and we enjoyed a short soak and rest for our feet.

Altogether the hike was 4 kilometers, which doesn’t really sound like very much. But the terrain was rocky, muddy, and hilly. We saw many geothermal springs with steam rising up into thin air. We also surprised a few sheep along the way.  

In the afternoon our group divided up and some of us went on a white water rafting tour. This was a first for me and I was a little unsure of the idea. We were picked up at our hotel by a transfer van and delivered to a spot 45 minutes east of Hveragerdi. Although we had many layers, suiting up was easier than yesterday’s adventure. We got in a bus and drove to another location down river. Our guide gave us the required safety information and we practiced in easy water before we got too far.

The worst of the rapids were at the start of the trip and I sat at the back near the expert guide. That was the best pace for me he said and who was I to argue? The river was only rated a class 2 but that was enough for me. We definitely didn’t stay dry but we all stayed safely in the boat.

The scenery was great and the weather was beautiful. Warm sunny days in Iceland don’t come all that often, even in the summer!

When we got back to where we started, there was a delicious lamb barbeque waiting for us. It really hit the spot after all that physical activity today. On the way back to our hotel I had a snooze and so did many others!

It’s time for another soak in the hot water!

Iceland Day 3

After a lovely buffet breakfast at our hotel, the group headed out of Reykjavik towards Thingvellir National Park.  

The traffic thinned out considerably as we left the city and I thought we would be away from the touristy crowds. We were - at our first stop - the entrance to the park. We had a nice overview  of Thingvellir Lake. People had made rock piles beyond the entrance sign. In Canada's Arctic they are called inukshuks. I shouldn't have been surprised to see them in Iceland as the terrain is similar.

Our next stop was very crowded with day trippers doing what is known as the Golden Circle.  After we got a closer look at Thingvellir Lake, we headed over to Silfra fissure.

We met up with the Dive IS company. They explained how to suit up and got fitted for our gear. First came your layer of thermal underwear followed by a layer they called the teddy bear suit. It was like a sleeping bag with feet and arms. Neoprene socks were next. That was followed by the snorkel suit which fitted tightly around the wrists and neck, and had rubber boots already attached. Then came neoprene mitts and a skull cap. Flippers and the snorkel mask completed the ensemble.

It was very hot in all that gear but the water temperature was a cool 2 degrees Celsius. After a short walk over to the entry point, we descended down a metal staircase and got into the water. It was a weird feeling once you got in. The dry suit gave you extra buoyancy and it was impossible to keep your legs down in the water. Even though we were well suited up you could still feel the cold through all the layers. Once your face hit the water, you felt a natural urge to pull it out and keep it out. But eventually you got used to the numbing cold.

After adjusting our masks, we set off in 2 groups of 6. Our leader, Jill, was most  patient and helpful and got me through some moments of panic when my mask started to fill with water.

The Silfra fissure is famous for it's incredible beauty and visibility. As you flow along with the current you are actually moving between the American and Erasian continents. It was quite an experience but I was more than glad to get out of the frigid water at the end of the route!

We headed over to Gullfoss which means Golden Waterfall. It is Iceland's most famous waterfall and one of the most visited sites as well.

I, along with a steady stream of tourists, walked along the path to get to the top of the waterfall. The spray was quite vigorous and it was impossible to stay dry. But my photos were so well worth it!

Our next stop was the Geysir thermal area. We saw the original inactive geysir after which all other geysirs have been named. Spellcheck tells me I'm spelling it wrong but that is the way they spell it here in Iceland.

One of the geysirs went off quite regularly, approximately every 2 to 5 minutes so we watched it for quite a while. Just just before it blew each time, it formed a great big round bubble - so cool to watch and so difficult to photograph!

Our last stop on the tour today was the Kerio Crater.  It is an inactive volcano which has filled with glacier water. The water was such a beautiful blue and the rocks and vegetation were a brilliant red and green. It took us about 20 minutes to walk all the way around the top of it.

Our accommodation tonight is a beautiful little guesthouse beside the river. We have hot tubs just outside our door which are filled with natural hot water. I am too beat to enjoy them tonight but maybe tomorrow!

Iceland Day 2

After a great night's sleep I woke up refreshed and ready to explore Reykjavik again.  Breakfast was a lovely hot cheese and mushroom sandwich at a restaurant called C is for Cookie, right across the street. 

M. met me while I was finishing up then we headed over to the National Art Gallery. We bought a Reykjavík Welcome Card which gave us free admission to all the museums we visited today. The National Art Gallery didn't take very long to go through. It was a beautiful building but the art was quite unremarkable.

We then headed over to a museum called the Settlement Exhibition. We joined a tour guide who told us about the history of Reykjavík's first settlers. While excavating for construction, a longhouse was discovered dating back to 871. The ruins have been preserved and are on display at the actual site. Construction of the hotel above the rooms went ahead.

Next we returned to the National Museum of Iceland once again. It is very impressive and extensive display of Icelandic history and artifacts throughout the ages. I especially enjoyed the black-and-white photography exhibit.

We caught a bus partway and hiked the rest of the way up to the Perlan. The Perlan Is another one of Reykjavík's very distinctive buildings. It consists of four huge circular hot water tanks, a viewing platform with restaurants, and a museum built on top of it. The views were quite spectacular once again. We didn't go into the museum but instead, headed upstairs for a delicious bowl of Icelandic soup.

Nearby we were surprised to see a geyser erupting which we later found was not real. Oh well, it was pretty exciting and a taste of what we are to see in the  days ahead!

Our last adventure of the day was a walk down to the beach and the thermal hot pools. We had brought our bathing suits and towels and enjoyed a soak in the pools with mostly local people. Just like hot springs back home, it got pretty warm so we decided to go cool off in the ocean. Wow! 10°C! Needless to say we didn't last very long. Yet there were other people swimming in the water and some kids diving off of small cliffs into the frigid water below. Icelanders are sure a hardy people!

We headed back to our hotel, mostly on foot, as we had just seen our bus disappear before we could get to the stop. We met up with our G Adventures tour guide and the rest of the group.

After some basic information and introductions were made, we headed to a restaurant called the Fish Market.

We were treated to a nine course meal with an amazing variety of unique and beautifully prepared dishes. We had sushi, salmon, lamb and even Minke whale meat, which tasted like beef much to our surprise.

We are a group of 12 travelers plus our guide. Canadians, Americans, Australians and an Irish girl. It looks like it's going to be a fun group!

Iceland Day 1

After all that sitting yesterday in cars, airports and planes, I sure did the opposite today! My plane landed in Keflavik, Iceland at 6:30 AM local time. This was 12:30 AM back home - bedtime! By the time I caught the shuttle bus into Reykjavik to my hotel, it was about 9 AM. Since my room wasn't ready I decided to do a luggage drop and go exploring.

I headed down towards the harbor but the beautiful Hallgrimskirkja Church caught my eye. At 75 meters tall it would standout on it's own, but it is situated on the top of a hill which makes it even more prominent. As the sun was starting to come out I decided to take advantage of the pleasant change in the weather forecast and I walked over to photograph and investigate this eye-catching building. The pipe organ inside the church is quite spectacular as well. When the sun disappeared behind some clouds I decided to postpone the elevator ride up to the top.

I felt a bit weary and decided that a hot cup of tea would pick me up. There were many interesting little places nearby so I stopped at one for a refreshing cup of jasmine tea. It was just what I needed!

I continued on towards the harbor and stopped at the Sun Voyager Sculpture.  Then the Harpa Conference and Concert Center Center caught my eye. As I walked along the shoreline towards it, I was struck by the water's magnificent color - so clean, clear and blue!

I headed back to my hotel room where I was able to check in, then met up with another member of the tour group who also came a day early. We revisited the sites I had seen earlier, but this time went up the tower of the  Hallgrimskirkja Church. The sun was strong, the sky was blue and the views were wonderful!

We also went to the Harpa Conference Center again but went inside this time. The architecture is truly amazing and unique!

Other stops this afternoon included a lunch break, a walk around the harbor area, a pleasant meander through an amazing old cemetery, and a quick stop at the National Museum of Iceland. They were closing soon, so we decided to return tomorrow.  

My feet had had it and so had I...after roughly 30 hours without much sleep. As we headed back to the hotel we stopped at the church on the hill one more time. The sun was hitting the face of the church along with the imposing statue of Lief Erikson.

It's not 'bedtime' Reykkavik time but I am beat. It's been a great first day in Iceland!