India Day 7 - Agra

After a good sleep my foot is better, and so am I. Start time was a pleasant 9 am today. We made a stop at an ATM machine as most everywhere we go takes cash only. There is a limit of 10,000 rupees per day that can be taken out. That sounds like a lot, but it is only about $200 CDN.  

We also stopped for a delicious morning chai. Chai means tea so there is no need to say chai tea like we do at home. That is like saying 'tea tea'. 

We headed on to Agra's Red Fort which is similar to the one in Delhi, but better preserved. It is quite extensive and is divided up into various sections. KV would explain what we were seeing, give us time for photos, then move on to the next area. 

Soon we got to a courtyard where we saw the Taj Mahal for the first time! Excitedly we all brought our cameras up to eye level, only to be disappointed with the results. It was so hazy, the camera couldn't record the spectacle no matter what setting was used. It is so dry here and there is so much dust in the air. It looks like air pollution but it isn't that. 

The architecture of Agra's Red Fort is wonderful and the history is fascinating. Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, who ordered the Taj Mahal built for his favorite wife, was imprisoned here. He spent his last days in the Fort, unable to see the Taj due to failing eyesight. 

The Taj Mahal is known for its pietra dura craftsmanship. That is where tiny pieces of various types of semi-precious stones are cut and inlaid into marble. We visited a shop that makes and sells this type of work and watched it being made.

After the demo, we were ushered into the showroom. There were large table-sized pieces on display only and not for sale. The owner showed us 2 coasters and asked us to guess the price. One looked fancier and more colourful so we guessed that was pricier. Of course it was a trick question. The price is dependent on how small the inlaid pieces are and how detailed the design is. 

It was difficult to choose something but I fell in love with the cut out holes that looked like lattice work and bought a small round container with a lid. I will either use it as a jewelry box or possibly for a tea light. 

Lunch was as a beautiful outdoor restaurant and it was most pleasant in the shade. I ordered a sample platter and it came with 7 or 8 little dishes filled with various meats, sausages, sauces, and a sweet treat that turned out to be pumpkin. It also came with lassi, a yogurt-like drink which was a combination of both sweet and sour. I liked it. 

We returned to the hotel for an hour's break, but first KV took me to a pharmacy as,I wanted to get some aspirin. There were about 3 shack-type of buildings with counters all along the front. You told the guy what you wanted and he went and got it for you. For 12 - 150mg aspirin, I paid roughly 18 cents CDN!

After a break, we visited Itimad-ud-Daulah's Tomb, otherwise known as 'Baby Taj'. It has been built with an eye to symmetry and the number 4. There are 4 entrance gate, although only one is used now. The main building consists of 4 imposing towers on each corner. The outside walls have inlaid marble designs which are appreciated all the more after the visit to the marble showroom earlier. 

We couldn't go to the Taj today because it is closed on Fridays but there is a park right across the river from it where you can photograph the entire structure. The atmosphere was still hazy but it was the Taj Mahal and it is magnificent! Tomorrow we go even closer!

I didn't go with the group for supper tonight because I didn't want a big sit-down long meal. Instead, Flat Stanley and I went across the busy road to...McDonalds! I had heard that their Big Macs are called chicken Maharaja Macs and I wanted to try one. It was surprising good and it was spicy too! There were lots of vegetables on it including peppers - the hot kind. My mouth was burning and I needed the Diet Coke to cool my mouth down.

After my supper, I discovered that the restaurant was attached to a shopping Center and there were a few stores open. I bought some tea for gifts, a pillow cover and a marble tea light holder. 

Tonight I am sleeping with a heavy chair propped up against my door. Last night, one person in the group did the same thing and heard someone enter his room at 5:30 am. The door locks with a key from the inside and there is no chain or other device to bar entry. 

India Day 6 - Khajuraho & Agra

My alarm was set for 4:15 am today! We had signed up for a visit to Panna National Park, known to have tigers. The ride there was in the dark of course, and it was cool enough for my sweater and Gortex jacket. Tiger poaching has been an issue and security was tight. We had to show our passports twice in order to proceed into the park. Before we set off we were given the chance to use the facilities. Not one to pass up that opportunity. I got to use a squat toilet for the first time since Morocco!

The main goal was to see tigers or leopards in the wild so we sped on to the area where they were often seen. Like Africa, there are many trails throughout the park and we drove around, hoping to catch sight of the elusive creatures before it got too light out. We weren't lucky today but the other two jeeps were.

We saw many deer, antelope, monkeys, peacocks, eagles, other birds, and even a mongoose. It warmed up nicely as the sun got higher and higher in the sky.

At about 10, we headed back to the hotel. The drive back was an interesting one since it was now daylight. I hadn't realized we had passed through many small settlements. We saw people working, kids going to school (I think), and all manner of activity. The road had frequent washouts due to a particularly bad monsoon season a few years ago. At one point, we saw a big truck on its roof in the ditch. Apparently it had gotten too close to the edge of the road, there was a drop off, and the truck had flipped. The way they drive here, it was no wonder.

Back at the hotel I had another shower to wash the dust off then packed up. The bus left Khajuraho at 11:30 and we drove for 2 hours. Our destination for tonight is Agra. But first, came lunch in the town of Alipura.

When we were close to this lunch destination, KV told us all to get off the bus as we had a surprise mode of transportation for the last kilometer or so. Three ox carts awaited us and we piled on, 6 to a cart. It definitely gave me an appreciation of what people here go through for long distances. The locals must have thought we were crazy. They stared, waved, laughed, took photos and even videoed us passing by.

We had lunch in a restaurant in an old building with a beautiful courtyard. There were no menus, so KV told us what the choices were. I ordered the vegetable paneer (vegetables with cottage cheese) with garlic naan bread. This time the bread had chunks of green peppers together with what looked like pieces of fresh garlic. It was all delicious! We were also served some home brewed hard liquor made with local fruit and were given some lemony soda to mix it with. I tried it straight as well as with the mix. It wasn't particularly tasty, just strong.

As we were finishing, two other people walked into the restaurant which had been empty except for us. It was Helen and her husband from Vancouver! What a small world! Perhaps we will meet again. And as we were eating we heard music coming from outside. It was a group of people celebrating the birth of a baby with gifts, music and dancing.

After eating we had a bit of time to explore the rooftop terrace and I photographed women sorting through big bags of rice, and two boys playing with a stick and a plastic jug for a 'ball' or a 'puck'. They saw me and waved. I find that in general, the people here are quite friendly, especially if you smile first and/or wave.

Our next leg of today's journey was on the bus again for another 2 hours. This time it had heated up considerably. There was air blowing out of the vents but it didn't help one iota. The sun coming in through the window was merciless. I tried to sleep but it was impossible. I must have dozed off eventually though but it wasn't easy with the driver blowing his horn so frequently. The road we are on is narrow and only one lane in either direction.

The last leg of today's journey is the train to Agra. 

We have assigned seats and only 5 minutes to board. My seat mate is a young man from Delhi. His English is good. He asks me if I am from the U.S. I'm Canadian I reply loudly and proudly! We end up chatting about politics, food, health care, Delhi, where I've been on this trip so far, and of course the weather. I apologize for asking so many questions but he doesn't seem to mind. Maybe I relieved the boredom of a long train ride home for him.

We are served supper on the train and I get paneer again. It's good. It's supposed to be a 2 hour train ride but it turns into 3 when the train makes an unscheduled (?) stop, perhaps to let other trains by. I also visit with the young Australian couple. They are so well educated and mature for their age - a real pleasure to visit with.

Our hotel isn't far away thank goodness. Everyone is beat tonight. My left ankle has swollen up something fierce and I am a bit dizzy right now. I wonder what gives.